Book binding

[realms_creator]

I was wondering if anyone has done a RPG book in coil binding?

We are in bata testing of our game and this book binding seems to be winning.

Just tell me what you think.

Thanks

[Chris Passeno]

Jared's Octane is coil bound.

A disadvantage would be that you don't have a spine on it.
An advantage would be that it would lay flat and won't crack.

-Chris

[Daniel Solis]

I've never seen a game book do this, but I have seen several other cookbooks and quick-reference books use a coil-bind with a dustjacket folded over it. This way, you have the shelf presence of a traditionally bound book with the functionality of a coil bound book.

[Valamir]

The Quad-S space ship minis game was comb bound as was all of its supplements.

Comb binding has as its advantage that you can (fairly inexpensively) buy the necessary equipment not outrageously priced at most office supply stores to do the binding at home...far cheaper than paying kinkos to do it.  Unless you're planning on doing hundreds of them, the process isn't all that onerous.  Basically just a funky paperpunch and manipulating the plastic binder comb through the holes.

Another advantage Comb binding has is the spine of it is a solid piece of plastic, which looks a bit nicer end out than a spiral wire, and is a good place to put a sticker with the book's name.

As for image...well it clearly has a DIY indie-punk cache to it which may be quite appealing (OctaNe) or lame, depending on your target audience.  I certainly wouldn't try to appeal to distributors with it, though some individual retailers might well like the indie-cred of it.

But truthfully, with true POD getting so cheap now, for any run of more than just a couple dozen, I think you'd be better off going perfect bound like Universalis, Staple bound like My Life with Master, or using RPGMall's small run service like EABA and Timelords.

[Paul Czege]

The disadvantage of comb and coil bindings is that they marginally compromise the structural integrity of the pages. It's more of an issue with thinner papers, but if users aren't careful when turning the pages you can have problems. Pages can get torn along the punched holes, or folds sometimes develop along the punched holes so the parts of the pages that extend into the coil or comb get crumped and all chaotic in there and start to obstruct page turning.

My second favorite binding is saddle-stitching. My favorite is the one the O'Reilly books have, where they look perfect bound, but have that taping internal to the spine so they actually lay flat when you open them. Anyone know what that binding is called?

Paul

[Luke]

i think that's called "lay flat" binding.

seriously!

but i am also vvvery tired.

-L

[jrs]

A "lay-flat" binding is a generic term that includes mechanical bindings like coil and comb.

I think the O'Reily books use something called the RepKover binding which is a softcover binding process that simulates a hard bound cover in that the text block floats free from the cover spine.  Very nice actually.

Julie

[Jack Aidley]

At work I am surrounded by coil-, and comb-, bound manuals for the various libraries we employ. I hate them. They are awkward to work with, difficult to flick through and prone to damage and disintegration.

I would not buy a coil, or comb, bound book.*


* - which is kind of silly, because I would buy a .pdf, print it out myself and make do with a pinch-binder...

[madelf]

Comb binding is awful.
I''ve had to deal with it far too much in my day job as well, and it is worse than worthless in my opinion.
I'd rather buy a book that came unbound and provide my own 3-ring binder than deal with one that came comb bound.
I have no real experience with the long term hold-up of coil-bound books, but I suspect they'd be only a little better than comb binding.

Really though, when perfect bound POD is as cheap as it is these days, there's not much reason to avoid going that way.
I've been looking into printing costs for my upcoming game book. I haven't looked that far yet, but I've already found one POD printer with an on-line quick-quote that's coming in at $2.68 a book for a 200 page soft-cover digest in runs as few as 100 copies. Up the number of copies a little and the price drops even lower. I looked into the copy and comb-bind route, much as I hate it, and I can't get that method to come in anywhere near as inexpensive as a perfect bound POD.

[Gold Rush Games]

Comb binding is awful.

  I have to agree, at least insofar as RPG books go.

Really though, when perfect bound POD is as cheap as it is these days, there's not much reason to avoid going that way.

  And to segue off of that (if I may), our new-and-improved Eureka! Publishing & Distribution program is just about ready to roll out. I just need to finish the "online tour" and get the contract posted. If anyone here is looking for POD printing and/or distribution, please give Eureka! P&D a look.

...I've already found one POD printer with an on-line quick-quote that's coming in at $2.68 a book for a 200 page soft-cover digest in runs as few as 100 copies.

  That's not a bad price. Through our printer, the same book would run about $4.54 per copy (regardless of quantity printed). On the up side, however, that price also includes no minimum print run (i.e., we can order a single copy if we want) and automatic listing on major on-line sellers (such as Amazon.com and others), as well as availability to the book trade via Ingram Book Co.

  Pricing of POD books certainly varies among the different printers. We've used a couple others but stick primarily to our current printer for the extras mentioned above. We're looking at another, though, that is offering a similar set-up.

[KeithBVaughn]

Working at Kinkos I get to see many coil binds (plastic spring for those of you not used to seeing it.) I am using it myself for my own Alpha copies of Planets of Peril RPG. It is a useful binding for a few books. It is superior to comb or wire binding in durability. The problem comes in with shipping and the way the coils can be damaged.

My suggestion would be to make the commercial copy of the book in a perfect bind and let the purchasers go and have theirs coil bound at their local binder, copy shop or Kinkos. It will save money for the binding and will cut down on damaged goods in shipping. It also gives a spine to put something on to get the potential buyer to pull it out from the other games.

[Michael S. Miller]

 I certainly wouldn't try to appeal to distributors with it, though some individual retailers might well like the indie-cred of it.

Distributors hate them because they are prone to break during shipping. I also find that with the coil/comb being wider than the text block, they muck up my bookshelf at home. I, for one, am not fond of coils/combs.

[jdagna]

My second favorite binding is saddle-stitching. My favorite is the one the O'Reilly books have, where they look perfect bound, but have that taping internal to the spine so they actually lay flat when you open them. Anyone know what that binding is called?

One of the printers I talked to in pricing out my books called it "otabinding" and used the O'Reilly books as an example of it.  I haven't heard that term used elsewhere, though.  I've heard lots of people call it "lay flat" even though that's probably not entirely correct.



Going back to the original questions on coil and comb bindings.... I can't stand them.  I had a few lab and text books done that way during college, and I preferred to remove the binding and keep the pages in a manilla envelope for safe-keeping.

There are some much better options that you can do yourself, but with POD being what it is, I think you'd be foolish to do anything by hand.